Coquette: Chef Miko Calo’s Bold New Venture Explores Freedom and Filipino Flavors

Oh, sweet Manila! Haven’t we all heard the saying, “When one door closes, another one opens?” Well, for us foodies, sometimes that new door doesn’t just open, it pops up with a delightful surprise that truly ignites our senses! More than a year after she gracefully stepped away from the acclaimed French fine dining institution, Metronome, Chef Miko Calo is back in the spotlight, captivating our palates with her playful new venture: Coquette. And let me tell you, darling, the name itself is a whisper of her current culinary philosophy: uninhibited, fun, and utterly free.

A Culinary Renaissance: Chef Miko Calo’s Bold New Chapter

Nestled within the elegant confines of Casa Buenas at Newport World Resorts, Coquette feels like a secret garden awaiting discovery. The restaurant’s charming, old-world design and ambiance, with its historical whispers and sophisticated air, provide the perfect, unexpected backdrop for Chef Calo’s daring creations. It’s like stepping into a beautifully preserved ancestral home, ready to host a modern, delicious narrative.

Coquette: A Name That Whispers Freedom

For those of us familiar with Chef Calo’s meticulous technical precision at Metronome, Coquette is a delightful departure. Don’t get me wrong, her signature mastery is still undeniably present, a strong, guiding hand beneath every dish. But this new era? It’s lighter, more casual, and joyfully steps away from solely French fine dining. Here, there’s a palpable sense of personal energy, a heartwarming incorporation of her roots from Butuan City in the Caraga region. She’s not just cooking; she’s storytelling with every plate, inviting us to be part of her journey.

The word “coquette” means to flirt, to catch attention, right? But Chef Calo, in her own unique way, isn’t just flirting with us diners; she’s flirting with fate itself! She’s testing the waters, pushing her own magnificent limits, and showing us all what more she can conjure. “I’m getting to express my more playful side,” Chef Calo shared, her eyes sparkling. “It’s about taking a lighter, more heartfelt approach to my food.” And honestly, as a fellow Filipina who cherishes both tradition and innovation, I couldn’t be more excited to witness this evolution.

From Butuan’s Heart to Parisian Heights: Miko’s Culinary Tapestry

Every great artist has a foundation, and Chef Miko’s is as rich and flavorful as her dishes. Her story is a beautiful tapestry woven from early memories and disciplined training.

Childhood Flavors: Seeds of Passion in Butuan

Imagine a bustling, loving household in Butuan. That’s where Miko Calo grew up, surrounded by the daily symphony of her grandmother’s home. She vividly recalls her aunts roasting cacao, filling the air with the earthy aroma of impending tsokolate, and afternoons spent with her nanny, playfully snacking on sea salt – simple, profound moments that undeniably shaped her early, tender love for food. These aren’t just memories; they’re the foundational flavors that now subtly infuse her sophisticated creations, connecting us all to a shared heritage.

Manila to Paris and Back: A Chef’s Grand Tour

At just 13, Miko moved to Manila for her studies. It was during her Hotel and Restaurant Management course at St. Scholastica’s College that her calling truly solidified. She knew, with a certainty that only passion can bring, that she was destined to be a chef.

Her journey then took her through local hotel kitchens before she pursued formal training at the prestigious FERRANDI Paris. Graduating at the top of her class, she interned at the legendary La Table de Joël Robuchon. For the next seven transformative years, she honed her unparalleled craft across Robuchon’s esteemed restaurants in Paris, London, and Singapore, eventually ascending to junior sous chef at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Talk about a culinary education that most only dream of!

In 2019, Miko Calo brought her formidable talent home, opening the highly acclaimed Metronome, where she quickly cemented her reputation as one of the Philippines’ culinary giants. But as we know, every chapter closes, making way for new stories to unfold.

A Taste of Coquette: Flirting with Filipino & French Flavors

Coquette’s menu is a masterclass in thoughtful curation. It’s streamlined, methodically categorized from cold apps to hot starters, mains, and desserts, yet each dish feels like a meticulously crafted poem. As a lifestyle writer, I live for these gastronomic adventures, and Coquette did not disappoint!

Starters That Spark Joy: My Personal Picks

• Let’s talk about the Pot de Foie Gras. Oh, my goodness! Crowned with a vibrant santol confiture, this starter is a luxurious overture, immediately setting the stage for an umami journey. The foie gras is decadently thick and rich, a creamy dream beneath a layer of tart-sweet preserved santol jam. That jam, my friends, is a stroke of genius, cutting through the richness with just the right amount of zest. Paired with buttery, thick bread, it’s an indulgent beginning that truly spoils your palate.
• To balance that richness, I highly recommend the Grilled Eggplant, Tomato, and Goat Cheese Salad. It’s simple, yes, but gloriously so! Slightly sweet, wonderfully zingy, and undeniably fresh, it provides a refreshing counterpoint to the foie gras, cleansing your palate and inviting you to savor the next course.
• And then there are the Chilled Steamed Oysters with Tamarind Vinaigrette and Toasted Pecans. What a unique take on oysters! These aren’t your typical briny bombs; they are big, silky, and slide down with effortless grace. The toasted pecans add an intriguing crunch and nutty depth. Honestly, I found myself savoring the nuts and sauce after the oyster, allowing the natural creaminess of the shellfish to shine without any distraction. It’s a playful dance of textures and flavors.

Mains That Make Memories: Seafood & Signature Poultry

While Chef Calo is rightfully renowned for her poultry prowess, the seafood at Coquette is of equal, magnificent stature. The Hokkaido Scallops with Clams, Celery Oil, and Moringa Oil are a testament to this. Treated with the most delicate care, these scallops cut like butter and melt in your mouth just the same. They are impossibly fresh and tender, brought to life with a vibrant pop of celery and the savory depth of clams. Pure elegance on a plate.

For the mains, prepare for something truly special. The Halibut in Coconut Cream Sauce with Cilantro and Allium Condiment is Chef Miko’s Asian-inspired fish curry, unafraid to embrace fresh, aromatic herbs. It’s a deeply satisfying dish, where the richness of the coconut cream sauce finds its perfect partner in the herbaceous burst of cilantro. The halibut, moist and soft, is cooked to perfection, soaking up the creamy curry in a way that makes you want to savor every single bite.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Calo meal without her iconic poultry. The Duck Breast with Foie Gras Sauce and Pickled Ampalaya is a must-try. The duck is expertly cooked—gamey but never overpoweringly so—and paired with an umami-rich foie gras sauce that feels like a warm hug. But here’s the kicker, the delightful surprise: the pickled ampalaya! And to all the ampalaya-haters out there, I implore you, don’t knock it until you’ve tried it at Coquette! Crunchy, subtly bitter yet wonderfully tangy and even faintly sweet, it slices through the duck’s richness in the most pleasant, unexpected way. It’s a flavor revelation!

And please, for the love of all things delicious, do not skip the Potato Purée. This is one of Chef Calo’s famed side dishes from Metronome, and it still deserves every bit of the spotlight here. It’s a refined, almost ethereal version of mashed potatoes—fluffy, subtly sweet, clearly made with premium French butter, and whipped until it’s so silky and indulgent you could easily eat it all on its own. It’s pure comfort, elevated.

Rustic Roots Reimagined: The Filipino Soul

Chef Miko’s food memories from her beloved province continue to shape her palate in the most beautiful ways. Her town’s humble paksiw of garlic, vinegar, and salt, traditionally eaten over rice, is brilliantly reimagined into Coquette’s best-selling Stewed Tuna Roe Rice, featuring bihod, a specialty from Capiz. This dish needs no grand introduction; it stands proudly on its own. The umami of the roe is bold and unapologetic in its flavor, rich yet perfectly balanced, making this rice dish a rustic, hearty, and absolutely essential experience.

Her Shrimp Kinilaw – a personal favorite of Chef Calo – is crafted using Northern Mindanao’s traditional tabon-tabon, which famously mutes the vinegar’s acidity and banishes any “fishy” aroma or taste from kinilaw. She also incorporates kabayawa citrus from Butuan, replacing the usual tuna or tanigue with succulent, soft shrimp. It’s a supremely satisfying appetizer that isn’t overly acidic, boasting a subtly sweet profile from the shrimp and a delightful kick of spice from finely chopped chilies. It’s everything you love about kinilaw, elevated and refined.

Sweet Endings: A Filipino Twist on Desserts

And what better way to conclude this gastronomic journey than with dessert? Chef Calo’s head pastry chef, Renzo Hernandez, delivers pure magic.

• The Durian Espuma with Blackberry Compote and Jasmine is truly unique. Yes, the fruit’s notoriously strong fragrance is distinct upon presentation, but the taste, oh, the taste! It’s mellow and subtle, allowing the durian to shine without overwhelming. Even as someone who isn’t usually keen on durian, I found this dessert surprisingly easy to finish. The durian pairs beautifully with the tangy blackberry compote, with the meringue providing creamy sweetness and the blackberry a fruity, tart contrast. It’s an elegant dance of flavors.
• For the chocolate lovers, there’s the Chocolate Cloud Nine. Layers of native chocolate unfold in a symphony of playful textures, from a satisfying crunch to a smooth, creamy core. It all comes together for a fittingly comforting and almost childlike end to the meal. It’s like revisiting your happiest childhood memories, but with a gourmet twist.

Embracing the Journey: Miko Calo’s Future in Newport

“Here I’m playing around and getting a feel of the crowd, before a more permanent space in Newport,” Chef Calo revealed, a hint of future excitement in her voice. She’s presenting a new, vibrant facet of herself as a chef, a beautiful evolution that we are all privileged to witness.

Chef Miko Calo effortlessly makes it easy for both her longtime patrons and first-time diners to appreciate her years of dedication and mastery in the kitchen. But this time, everything feels uniquely hers—the menu, the dishes, the very soul of the experience. Coquette isn’t just a pop-up; it’s both a creative playground and a heartwarming homecoming for Chef Calo. It’s available for us, the eager public, to experience until November of this year. So, what are you waiting for? Come and flirt with these incredible flavors!

Casa Buenas is located at G/F Grand Wing, Newport World Resorts, Portwood Street, Newport City, Pasay.